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Studio Photography and Lighting - Techniques

Mario Testino is not the only one that can take brilliant portraits - you can too.

Most of the ideas behind studio photography are easy to learn and the benefits are clear. By controlling the light in an enclosed space you can begin to take fab portraits, glamour and macro photographs. I attended a two day workshop and learnt all the basics and some more. You need to pick the right course, teacher and equipment - this is the main proviso.

Learn the aims of taking this type of picture and the rest fits into place. The aim of most studio photography is to create a 3-d effect, lifting it off the page and making the viewer pay attention - and no I don't think that Studio photography is just about technique. However, technique is a very good starting point - because lets face it, you can't really teach good taste, can you? If you are worried that you don't have good taste then just remember these rules - keep it simple and ask someone else if they like it!

Back to technique - basic studio style photographs can be achieved with one light (and perhaps a reflector). The key to nearly all of this is that the 3-d effect is achieved using soft light and that soft light equals "big light". Big light can be achieved either by moving the light very close to the subject or by using a soft box or umbrella. Before taking a photograph you will also need to:

  • Set the white balance manually
  • Find out and set you camera to its flash sync speed (use 1/60th sec if in doubt)
  • Set your camera to Aperture priority
  • Position the lights as close as possible to the subject (hint: position it as close as you can without coming between the lens and your subject)

BANG !! - Generally, the basic technique listed above will make someone look good.

In order to make a photo and the person look special, you need to do something original; or you can do something special with the lighting. This generally means using more than one light, (using a lightmeter will help immensely). Shining a light against the background - creating a warm brightness around the shoulders of the subject and graduating towards darker shades as you move up the photo, looks super. (see this photo). When the same back light is combined with a red gel filter you get a similar effect, but with a delicious red mist around the shoulders (see this photo).

Creating portraits with a shadow-less white background (currently a la mode due to the likes of Venture Portrait), using some sort of curved white backdrop and three lights will also achieve interesting results. Aim two lights at the background and set them to two stops higher than the foreground light aimed at the subject.

In terms of equipment, an Elinchrom Style 100FX Flash head costs £265 incl VAT, (www.theflashcentre.com); reflectors, light boxes and backgrounds might cost you another £200. The Sekonic L-308 S Flashmate costs £124.95 incl. VAT (www.cameraking.co.uk). The Beginners Guide to Light (costs £20 incl. VAT from www.theflashcentre.com.

There is no need to be bamboozled by the range of equipment on offer in the shops. With a starter kit, including a single light and softbox, plus background costing from around £400, you can produce professional looking portraits. Learn how to draw some personality out of the model and add your own creative streak, and then you can produce brilliance.

Neil attended a 2-day course run in conjunction with TFC & Pembroke Photography - contact Pembroke Photography on 01249 444750 for further details.


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Discuss this article, 1 of 6 messages, read more:
Jonathan Ryan 
Posted: 14/05/06 10:35:10 10
"Generally, the basic technique listed above will make someone look good."

Well, maybe....

What's confusing here is that the article talks about flash lighting (links to Flash Centre etc) - but the method given will not work for flash lighting - it will work for continuous lighting (probably).

Aperture priority using studio flash will tend to give you massive overexposure (since it meters without the flash and then you fire the flash with the shutter).

Oh, and "plus 2 stops for the b/g" for high key - soudns a little savage to me. At that level you tend to get light bleed round the edges of the subject - I tend to use +2/3 or +1.
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